1. Design

   
   The goal with this dock renovation was to create a safe entry to the boat and expand the decked area for more usable space. My design was to add a few more piles that would create a V-shape around the front of the boat and put taller piles where the lift is currently so we can access the side of the boat. The constraints were that the are 10ft set backs from the extension of the property lines, into the canal. We did this by keeping the existing line on the left and expanding into the red shaded area on the right, up to the 10ft setback.
   
   

2. Permitting

   
   This was the step that took the longest. For our location we needed to submit a checklist to the Environmental Management Department to ensure the manatees were not effected. Then, we had to submit a survey and plans to the Florida Department of Environmental Protection to assure the new dock met all the Florida statutes. Then, we submitted the survey and plans to the Army Corp of Engineers to get there approval. With all that in hand and the plans stamped by a licensed engineer, we could submit them to the city for review and issue of the permit.

3. Demolition

   
   I was debating taking on this project myself, but without the right equipment it was going to take forever. So I ended up contacting a local dock builder, Titan Constructors, and they were able to fit me in.
   
   They rolled up with a barge and small crane and began by removing the old boat lift and setting it to the side.
   
   
   
   Then they cut up and pulled off the old decking and joists with their crane.
   
   
   
   Finally, they started pulling the old piles, and while they were still in decent shape, I didn’t want to have to do this again anytime soon, so we just went ahead and replaced them all.
   
   

4. Setting New Piles

   
   To set the piles they start by using a big water pump connected to a long pipe with a nozzle on the end. This is used to jet a shallow hole into the bottom of the canal right where they want the pile to go.
   
   
   
   Then, they wrap the pile with a slick plastic material so the barnacles and oysters wont penetrate the wood below the water line. Using the crane and a strap they lower the pile into that shallow hole to start the driving process.
   
   
   
   Using an APE Vibratory Hammer they then vibrate the pile a minimum of 10ft into the ground. Most piles were driven further than that, until the pile hits rejection and cannot be driven any further.
   
   
   
   After driving the piles, a level line is marked for the top of the joists and the piles are cut flush to that point.
   
   

5. Installing the Beams

   
   The 2×10 beams are then installed to the piles. Typically these are through bolted on both sides of the pile with 1/2″ all-thread. This process requires drilling multiple holes through the beams and each pile. The center of the pile is very hard and this can be difficult and time consuming.
   
   Luckily, Simpson StrongTie offers a stainless steel Timber Screw that is a 1:1 replacement for 1/2” diameter lag or 2:1 replacement for a 5/8” thru-bolt. These do not require pre-drilling which saves time and money and avoids the use costly auger bits. 
   
   
   
   Using these timber screws definitely sped up the process and are more than adequate.
   
   
   
   

6. Installing the Ledger Board

   
   Since the area that we are decking over has a lot of angles, we opted to install a ledger board to the concrete bulkhead. To do so we used the Simpson StrongTie Titan HD Heavy Duty Screw Anchors. These anchors are incredibly strong and perfect for corrosive environments like saltwater.
   
   

7. Installing the Joists

   
   With all the beams and ledger installed, it was time to start laying out the joists. For this we went with 2×8 treated lumber, spaced 16 inches apart. For now these joists get temporarily installed and cut to length before capping them with a rim board.
   
   

8. Installing the Hardware

   
   With all the joists and the rim boards in place we could finish up by installing the hardware. This is where the real long-term strength comes into play. With all the angles we had to use some skewed brackets which, come to find out, even if they don’t stock them, Simpson StrongTie will custom make brackets for your application. In our case, we needed them in stainless steel so they were able to have those made for us.
   
   
   
   We also needed to install hurricane ties to assure the dock stays together in high winds and storm surges.
   
   
   
   Then we finished off the joists to rim board connections with stainless steel skewable angles.
   
   

9. Installing the Boat Lift

   
   With the new longer piles in place it was time to get the boat lift back up and running. The beams get mounted to the top of those and new direct drive motors were installed.
   
   

10. Decking

    
    For the decking we went with WearDeck in the color Barefoot Sand which is perfect for harsh environments like saltwater docks. Not only does it retain less heat than typical composite decking but it also has a structural quality to it that will increase the strength and rigidity of the dock itself.
    
    The deck boards get screwed down with stainless steel deck screws using the Simpson StrongTie Quik Drive Cordless Decking System. This system uses collated screws and gives you the ability to fasten the deck boards from a standing position which will not only save your back but it will save you a ton of time with the autofeed attachment.
    
    

11. Expanding the Deck

    
    We did end up making a rather last minute change to extend the decked area into the yard. This gave us the opportunity to have more space to relax and entertain, as well as match up the height of the paver walkway with the deck to rid any tripping hazards.
    
    They started by removing the top soil with a mini excavator and digging down enough to allow for the structure to be installed below the decking.
    
    
    
    Posts were installed about 3 feet deep on a footing and beams were added to carry the joists.
    
    
    
    The joists were then installed in the same manner as the dock.
    
    
    
    Finally the decking and fascia boards were installed to complete the dock.
    
    

1. Assemble Unit

   
   
   
   

2. Install Shelves & Divider

   
   

3. Assemble Face Frame

   
   

4. Install Face Frame

   
   

5. Finishing
   

   For this project we decided to go with Behr’s tintable semi-transparent deck stain in the color Wood Chip. I like using this because it hides a lot of the grain that can sometimes be not so attractive when staining plywood, and it waterproofs the locker all in one step.
   
   
   
   I also added some turf to the bottom. This was cut from a doormat I found on Amazon and looks great.
   
   

1. Research, Research, Research

   Before I even started I did a ton of research. With an investment this big, I wanted to make sure I got it right. Luckily there are a ton of YouTube videos that go over the different components required for a golf simulator in depth as well as reviews and comparisons. One of my favorite channels was Golf Simulator Videos where Jay has a ton of golf sim content and is very helpful. There are so many options for each component required for your simulator and, based on your space and budget, deciding what and where to spend your money on can be a daunting task.

2. Enclosure

   My space was a little unusual. It’s actually the side of a car bay in my barn/workshop. That being said, I didn’t want to permanently close that car bay off with a large enclosure. After looking into ways to build my own I ultimately landed at Carl’s Place where they sell everything required from a golf simulator. They even have a “Build Your Own Golf Simulator” design tool. I was able to customize the enclosure size and aspect ratio to fit my area perfectly (down to the inch!). Not only does it show you the viewable area but it also defines the total enclosure width, height and depth.
   
   
   
   In an ideal world, 16:9 is the best aspect ratio to give you that immersive feeling. I have an area that is 12 feet wide which would leave me with a height of less than 7 feet and I didn’t like that. Another option is the 16:10 option, this is better but still didn’t give me the height I wanted. Which brings me to the option I went with, the 4:3 aspect ratio. With a 12 foot wide enclosure, the height is now 111″ (over 9ft) which felt like it would be great for those high loft shots.
   
   
   
   Now the depth of the enclosure was a concern to me, I really wanted to minimize the depth to allow use of that car bay if needed. Therefore, I went with a 24 inch deep enclosure, which meant I was going to need some curtains on the sides and netting above to catch any stray balls.
   
   
   
   Assembly of the unit is very straightforward with a diagram noting pipe lengths and assembly instructions. The screen and enclosure fabric are installed with the included bungees and foam is installed with velcro. This process took an hour or so.
   
   
   
   On my enclosure package, I opted to purchase and cut my own pipes which saved me some money but they do offer pre-cut pipes for a fee. I also added foam inserts to prevent ricochet off those pipes.
   
   
   
   For the viewing area I went with the premium screen which is a 3 layer impact screen that has a smooth finish for a high quality image and reduces noise from the impact of the ball.
   
   Another thing I did to decrease the bounce back of the golf ball was to mount a couple of heavy duty moving blankets. As it turns out, this was a bad idea and resulted in a lot of clean up.
   
   
   
   After the clean up I tried again with a memory foam mattress topper. I found one that was more dense than most and it worked like a charm. I simply used the holes in the topper to zip tie it to a board and suspended it about 6 inches behind the screen.
   
   
   

3. Projector

   When it comes to selecting a projector for your golf simulator there are a few key features that should be high on the list. A short throw projector will require a shorter distance to be mounted from the screen to get a large image. This will prevent shadows from the golfer when addressing the ball. Another feature that should be strongly taken into consideration is the brightness. This is measured in lumens and I think the ideal target should be 5000 lumens or above. Regardless of ambient daylight, you will require some light to hit the ball and a higher lumen count will make sure that doesn’t effect the image quality.
   
   I happen to think I found the best projector for the job, the BenQ LK936ST 4K short throw laser projector, which is designed for this specific application with 5100 lumens and has a ton of other useful features.
   
   
   
   The 4K resolution allows the software to perform at its peak giving you the most realistic image. But even more so when you enable “Golf Mode” which corrects purple fringing using the blue and green colors from popular golf software and allows golfers to view the game with more natural reproductions of blue skies and green grass.
   
   
   
   Since this is a laser projector we will get about 20,000 hours of life whereas with a standard lamp projector, the lamps will need replacing about every 1500-2000hrs. Plus lamp projectors take time to warm up versus the instant on capability of a laser projector.
   
   
   
   The installation of this projector is a breeze. After using BenQ’s calculator to determine a position for my projector, I was able to fine tune it with the lens shift and corner fit adjustments.

4. Curtains and Netting

   Since the enclosure was less than the ideal depth, I needed to extend the sides and top. I did so by installing 1 inch EMT pipes that extended from the back wall and tied into the ceiling. Those pipes carry the blackout room divider curtains that will not only collect any stray balls but act as a sunlight barrier when playing in the late afternoon.
   
   
   
   To protect the ceiling I opted to install netting which gets connected to the enclosure, curtain rods and ceiling (using hooks).
   
   

5. Hitting Mat and Putting Surface

   
   The surface in front of the hitting mat needed to be level to putt onto. For this I ordered some putting green turf and laid that over 1 inch thick rigid foam insulation with double faced tape. It feels great to walk and putt on but the lightweight foam makes it easy to move if I ever needed to.
   
   
   
   The hitting mat I went with is the 5′ x 8′ Country Club Elite Mat. This is an amazingly realistic and durable hitting mat. If you wanted to save som cost here you could make a cutout for a small section to hit off however I liked the idea of feeling like I’m standing on the course.
   
   
   
   With the hitting mat and putting surface being only 8 feet wide and my screen being 12 feet, I needed to fill in the gaps on the sides. For this I though some thicker turf, to simulate the rough, would be a good accent and slow down any balls rolling
   
   

6. Launch Monitor

   
   The launch monitor is the brains of the entire golf simulator. This is what tracks the ball trajectory and provides club data. This is where my budget golf simulator fell short.
   
   For this simulator a lot of my research was pointing to the FlightScope Mevo+. It’s an accurate sensor for a decent price but after using it for a few weeks I decided it wasn’t for me. Here is why. The Mevo+ needs to sit on the ground 7-8ft behind the hitting area. This took up some valuable floor space and needed to be set up before every round as well as realigned when someone inevitably bumped it. It also runs on an internal battery which wont last a full round and had to be supplemented with an external battery pack or power cord. Another issue I had was that it connected to the computer via WiFi and that signal was pretty weak causing the unit to have to constantly be reconnected. Lastly, since this is a radar based system it tracks the ball flight but no club data. Furthermore, I was also getting radar interference from the mini split if that was on during putting causing the sensor to hit phantom long putts.
   
   
   
   So, the launch monitor that I went with is the Uneekor Eye XO. This is a big investment for any simulator but the accuracy, reliability and club data that it provides is truly unmatched. The unit is mounted up and out of the way, 10 feet above and 3.5 feet in front of the tee. It also is hardwired to the computer so no connectivity issues. To drop it from the ceiling I used 1/2″ black steel pipe and flanges.
   
   
   
   
   
   One of the biggest things to me though is the club data that I get from this sensor. It uses dual high speed infrared camera technology to capture a full range of precision data with the ball of your choice. With the included stickers added to the club face, it provides the swing speed, club path, face angle and impact location which has helped tremendously with analyzing my swing and what needs to be fixed. Plus the high speed camera provides a slo-mo replay of the impact. (So me and my hack buddies really have no excuses after a bad shot )
   
   

7. Gaming Computer and Software

   The computer that you need will depend on the software that you are running. Some software such as E6 only requires a Nvidia 1070 Graphics Card or equivalent to run in 1080 which you may have a PC or laptop that already has this in it. Since we have a 4K projector I wanted to go with the highest resolution software out there to get the best performance. After doing a ton of research I ultimately I landed on GSPro. I loved the realistic 4K graphics and ball physics but what really sold me was the company. The fact that they are continually rolling out updates and improving the game was something I wanted to see.
   
   
   
   For a great 4k experience they recommend the RTX 3080 GPU and 16GB memory. To meet and exceed those requirements I picked up this gaming computer from Newegg with a 3080ti GPU in it. Unfortunately it looks like they are sold out at the time I’m writing this so here are some other 3080ti options. I will say that this computer has worked flawlessly and my son is pumped because now he can use it for gaming (when I’m not playing golf )
   
   

8. Controls

   You can definitely use the mouse and keyboard when making adjustments to the game. But after seeing this control box from Roxor Golf, I had to have one. This controller, once the game is launched, will make it easy for others to control the game with the intuitive buttons.
   
   

9. Other Uses

   
   Golf simulators require a lot of space. The good thing is that they don’t have to be used for only golf. We are able to digitally shrink our projector area and cast a 16:9 viewing area for things like TV or movie viewing and even gaming! To make this happen we ran the HDMI from the computer to an AV receiver before the connection to the projector. Then, we connect speakers and through another HDMI input we connected an Apple TV.
   
   
   
   Movies through Apple TV:
   
   
   
   Live TV from Apple TV:
   
   
   
   Gaming on the PC:
   
   
   
   Driving simulator on the PC:
   
   

1. Assemble Base

   
   

2. Assemble Middle Shelf

   

3. Assemble Top Shelf

   
   

4. Install Top

   
   

5. Cut and Install Backing

   
   
   
   
   
   

1. Apply the Templates

   
   Download Templates and print out at 100% scale. You may need to uncheck any “scale to fit” or similar option. Cut the star off the one template and place to fit between the two tree parts. Then, adhere those templates to your 1×6 with spray adhesive.
   
   

2. Cut Out the Parts

   
   To cut the parts out you could do it all with a jig saw, scroll saw or band saw but I used a circular saw for the straight cuts to get a straight, clean cut.
   
   
   
   On the templates you will find some crosshairs where you can use a 3/4″ drill bit. I used a forstner bit to get a clean hole.
   
   
   
   To finish off the half lap joint on the two tree parts I used a jig saw.
   
   
   
   The star can get cut out with jig saw, scroll saw or band saw.
   
   

3. Drill Dowel Holes

   
   After applying finish to each piece, I then used a 1/4″ forstner bit to drill a hole in the bottom of the star.
   
   
   
   I also did the same for the top of the tree.
   
   

4. Assemble

   
   After that, the assembly is pretty straightforward. The two tree parts slide together and the 1/4″ dowel is used to attach the star on the top. Wood glue is not required since everthing fits together pretty snug but can be used for a permanent assembly if desired.
   
   

Time needed: 30 minutes.

1. Assemble Inside Corners

   
   

2. Assemble Outside Corners

   
   
   

Time needed: 2 days.

1. Cutting the Rails

   
   
   
   
   

2. Assembling the Rails

   
   
   
   
   
   
   

3. Assembling the Legs

   
   Note: When I built my table, rather than using the 2×4 supports at the top I went with a piece of plywood which ended up a little wobbly. Below, the plans have been modified for more rigidity.
   
   
   
   

4. Assembling the Legs

   

5. Assembling the Base

   
   
   

6. Finishing Top and Base

   
   To make sure you end up with the best results make sure to prep the surface before staining. For this, I used DAP Plastic Wood-X to fill any joints, knots and imperfections before sanding smooth.
   
   
   
   We then applied a semi-tranparent tintable deck stain (in the color slate) which I like working with because it help tone down the variations in color that you would normally see when staining pine, and it has the water proofing built in, making it an easy one step process.
   
   

7. Installing the Top

   
   
   
   
   

8. Attaching the Rails

   
   
   
   
   

9. Adding Trim (Optional)

   

1. Patching Any Holes

   
   We had a central vacuum port in the middle of our wall that we wanted to move. I was able to remove the port and, with a small piece of drywall, I patched the hole (leaving a 2″ paper boarder on the drywall to act as the tape) and coated it with DAP DryDex Joint Compound. I then sanded it smooth and it was ready for paint.
   
   

2. First Coat of Paint

   
   Before installing the battens, we opted to apply the first coat of paint which was a lot quicker with the batten not in the way.
   
   

3. Install Top Batten

   
   For the top batten, I went with a 1×4. I pre-painted this board and mitered the corners before installing it with 2in brad nails into the studs.
   
   

4. Laying Out the Batten Spacing

   
   Board and batten walls, traditionally have the battens spaced 12″-16″ apart. I like the wider spacing so we went with a spacing as close to 16″ as possible, while still making sure they were equally space. Below is a formula that should help you figure this out.
   
   Feature Wall Length = Wall Length + (Thickness of board(s) used on outside corners)
   
   Number of Battens = (Feature Wall Length / 16″) + 1 (Rounded to nearest whole number)
   Note: Round down for larger spacings and up for smaller spacing.
   
   Spacing = (Feature Wall Length – Width of 1 Batten) / (Number of Battens – 1)
   
   Mark the inside edge of the first batten, then measure over (using spacing calculated) and mark the far edge of the next batten. Continue to do so over the entire wall.
   

5. Installing the Battens

   
   Since these battens are vertical, there will most likely be no stud behind them to nail into. To make sure they stay attached to the wall you will want to glue them with DAP DynaGrip HD Max which will ensure a fast and strong bond between the batten and drywall.
   
   
   
   Simply apply a bead of DAP DynaGrip HD Max to the back of the 1×2 batten strip after cutting to length.
   
   
   
   Then use a laser level to ensure plumb and tack to the drywall with 1-1/4″ 18g brad nails.
   
   

6. Installing the Corners

   
   I started by assembling the corners on the ground with 1-1/4″ brad nails to ensure they were nicely aligned.
   
   
   
   I then installed the corner assembly with 2″ brad nails into the studs.
   
   

7. Caulk and Fill

   
   To make sure the feature wall looks as good as it can you will want to fill any nail holes with DAP Premium Wood Filler and caulk in the battens and other joints with DAP Alex Flex which is guaranteed to not crack and is paint ready in 30 mins.
   
   
   
   Using a putty knife you can apply the wood filler to any nail holes. Then come back and sand smooth when dry.
   
   
   
   Apply the caulk to any joints you want to hide and then wet you finger and run it over the joint to give it a nice round over.
   
   

8. Final Coats of Paint

   
   Now apply the final coat of paint (which may actually require 2 coats) by cutting in the battens and rolling in between. We started by not painting the baseboards and door trim but ultimately opted to paint those black as well and were incredibly happy with how it turned out.
   
   

9. Sign Backing

   
   To add a personalized touch to this wall we wanted to make a sign. For this I cut down a 1/4″ MDF sheet to the dimensions I wanted.
   
   
   
   Knowing how MDF sucks up paint, I sealed the surface first with a coat of primer.
   
   
   
   And then finished up with a few coats of flat white paint.
   
   

10. Vinyl Cut Signage

    
    Using our Cricut vinyl cutter I was able to design the sign and cut it out of black vinyl.
    
    
    
    After weeding the excess vinyl and applying the transfer tape, I aligned it on the sign to get it centered and spaced properly. I then taped it in place on the bottom edge before flipping it over and removing the paper backing.
    
    
    
    After flipping it back over and pressing the vinyl in place, I then removed the transfer tape to reveal the vinyl signage!
    
    

11. Assembling the Frame

    
    I then moved on to the frame. For this I used red oak 1x2s. I cut a 45 degree miter on each end such that the frame would overlap the sign by about 3/4″.
    
    
    
    To take out some of the red in the oak I applied peroxide then a lye mixture before applying a wipe on polyurethane.
    
    
    
    Finally I assembled the frame with DAP Weldwood Instant Wood Adhesive and 1-1/4″ pin nails.
    
    
    
    
    I then attached the backing to the frame with staples every 6″ or so.
    
    

12. Installing the Sign

    
    Using a laser level I made sure the sign was centered and level before attaching it to the battens with 2″ brad nails.
    
    

Time needed: 3 days.

1. Remove the Rails

   
   Depending on your pool table the rails may come off in pieces or all as one like ours. Just remove the bolts from below to free the rails.
   
   
   
   Remove the felt by cutting with a utility knife and prying out the feather boards. Remove all staples and hanger bolts as well.
   
   

2. Cutting New Rails

   
   I used my old rails as a template by first measuring the angles and matching them to the cuts made on the new, red oak, 2×6 rails. The angles you should be matching are the top angle, keeping in mind the length of cut on the rails (cushion mounts to this), and the bottom angle (matches cushion) which returns to the table.
   
   
   
   I also cut a dado to match the old one which will be used to install the fabric to cover the bumpers.
   
   
   
   I then traced the pockets and rough cut them with a jigsaw. The pocket holes are cut on a slight angle to help accept the pockets.
   
   
   
   I finished the pocket holes by matching the compound angled cuts of the old rails on the miter saw. This is an important angle to try to match up.
   
   

3. Joining the Rails

   
   I cut the rails down to their final length based on the old rails as a template and joined them together by gluing and clamping the rails and securing with 1-1/4″ hardwood pocket screws.
   
   
   
   I then filled in any imperfections with DAP Plastic Wood-X which dries to a nice natural color.
   
   

4. Installing the Hanger Bolts

   
   I first removed the existing skirting to make things a little easier.
   
   
   
   I then located the rails on the table and marked the hanger bolt locations.
   
   
   
   Using an appropriate sized drill bit, I predrilled the hanger bolt locations.
   
   
   
   And installed the hanger bolts by cinching two nuts together and screwing the course threaded end into the rails with a socket.
   
   

5. Building the Legs

   
   For the legs we wanted to bring them out to the corners. The problem was that this is where the pockets are. So I decided to build 8 inch boxes out of plywood. The boards were all mitered on a 45 and glued together with DAP Weldwood Wood Glue for a strong hold.
   
   
   
   
   I laid down two strips of painters tape and placed the boards on that to help hold the miters. Then finished off the joints with a pin nailer.
   
   

6. Finishing

   
   The red in the red oak really stands out when you apply a finish to it. So we opted to bleach all the wood. This process consists of wiping the wood with peroxide and then applying a lye mixture and allowing to bleach in the sun. The mixture is 3 teaspoons of lye in 1 quart of water. After it drys, you wipe it with clean water to remove any residue and apply a wipe on polyurethane for protection.
   
   

7. Installing Cushions

   
   For a permanent bond I installed the cushions with DAP Weldwood Contact Cement. This is applied to both the cushion, and the rail where it mounts, and allowed to cure until both pieces were tacky. I was able to salvage the old cushions which were still in good condition.
   
   
   
   Then it can be pressed into place for an instant bond on contact.
   
   
   
   The bumpers I purchased on Amazon were also installed with contact cement. They are kind of like rubber end caps for the cushions and recess into the pocket. Once bonded we trimmed with a utility knife and eased the edges with a rotary tool.
   
   

8. Installing Sights

   
   Sights are the dots on the side of the pool table that help you line up your shot. The old sights were a pearl inlay that I didn’t think would go well with the new style of the table so I opted to cut discs out of 1/2″ brass rod.
   
   
   
   I then sanded them down, marked the locations based on the old rails and used a 1/2″ forstner bit to drill a hole the same depth as the discs. I checked the depth by placing the discs and removing with a piece of tape before adhering.
   
   
   
   The discs then get bonded into place using DAP RapidFuse All-Purpose Adhesive.
   
   
   
   

9. Recovering the Table and Cushions

   
   In the beginning I thought “I going to have to get a professional to recover this table” but after rebuilding the entire table and watching enough YouTube videos my confidence was pretty high, so I ordered some charcoal pool felt on Amazon and went for it.
   
   I started by installing the felt on the table. Stapling the middle of one end and stretching both sides toward the pockets. I then did the same at the other end getting the felt nice in tight, lengthwise. After that I moved on to the sides, making sure to staple every 3/4″ or so and pull evenly.
   
   
   
   After trimming the felt I cut 3 slits in each pocket and pulled tight, stapling below. This part of the recovering process wasn’t hard.
   
   
   
   Then it was on to the rails. The part I was most nervous about. I highly recommend watching as much content on this process before beginning. I started by laying the fabric upside down and hammering the featherboard into the dado to secure the felt to the top of the rail.
   
   
   
   Before completely seating the featherboard I trimmed the excess felt off.
   
   
   
   I completed hammering the featherboard in with a scrap piece of wood.
   
   
   
   I then flipped the rails over, wrapped the cushions, pulled the felt tight in the middle and placed one staple there. I then stapled the corners of the side pockets getting the fold and tension just right.
   
   
   
   After pulling the felt tight and stapling back to the middle, I moved on to the corner pockets which just get stretched around the corner and stapled tight. Then finish out the rail back to the middle, stapling about 3/4″ apart and trimming the excess. Sounds easier than it is to get it right, but this isn’t a recovering tutorial.
   
   
   
   Flip the rails back over and insert the hanger bolts into the holes on the table.
   
   
   
   Secure the rails from below with washers, nuts and socket wrench.
   
   

10. Installing the Legs

    
    I first placed the legs at the outside corners of the table such that the pockets would recess into them. Then I secured the beams to the legs with wood screws temporarily.
    
    
    
    We then unbolted and removed the old legs from the table.
    
    
    
    Using a drill I drilled holes for through the beam and into the new legs.
    
    
    
    Then, using the old bolts I secured the beams to the new legs.
    
    

11. Aprons & Pockets

    
    The final pieces of the table were the aprons. These were ripped to 6-1/2″ which is enough to cover the side pockets and secured with four 1-1/4″ pocket screws at each end and 90 degree clips in the middle.
    
    
    
    I then placed the upgraded leather pockets and secured with black tack nails.
    
    

1. Assemble Base

   
   

2. Drawer Box Assembly

   
   

3. Drawer Box Assembly

   
   

4. Install Drawers

   
   
   

5. Installation and Trim

   
   
   
   

6. Cut and Install Top

   
   
   
   

7. Finishing

   
   All of our drawer fronts were primed and painted before install.
   
   
   
   Before primer and paint on the unit I filled and nail holes, joints or imperfections in the plywood with DAP Premium Wood Filler and sanded smooth. DAP recommends using a putty knife for wood filler application.
   
   
   
   To give the unit a truly built-in look we needed to caulk it in place. We did so using DAP Alex Flex which is a crack-proof sealant formulated for trim. DAP recommends using a finishing tool for caulk application.
   
   
   
   We applied this around the top and sides.
   
   
   
   Then we applied primer and paint to the exposed wood.
   
   

8. Drawer Fronts and Hardware

   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

1. Assemble the Base

   
   
   
   

2. Attach the Top

   
   I actually build this top with no gaps but I wish I would have left a 1/4″ between the boards. I also opted to screw the top in place with the table upright since we only had two people and this thing is an absolute beast once assembled.
   
   

This tutorial will guide you through how we build our raised garden area and installed irrigation to automate the watering process.

1. Layout and Topsoil Removal

   
   After locating the beds where we wanted them we used a tape measure and some spray paint to mark the boxes. Then we used a hose to layout an area that will be landscaped with rock to make mowing and edging easier.
   
   
   
   With the area marked out in spray paint, I then started shoveling out the top soil and cutting a nice clean vertical edge between the lawn (or lack thereof) and what will be landscaped.
   
   
   
   Luckily I had access to my father-in-law’s skid steer which made quick work of clearing the rest of the grass and topsoil. Getting rid of the top soil will help make sure weeds don’t grow up and it will provide solid ground to build the raised beds on.
   
   

2. Roughing in the Irrigation

   
   To get water to the planters I trenched a line from the nearest spigot and laid 1/2in sprinkler line to each raised bed location.
   
   
   
   I used a tee to go from one bed to the other and made sure to leave enough line exposed so that when the bed was filled with topsoil it would still be exposed.
   
   

3. Weed Barrier and Stone

   
   To make sure those pesky weeds don’t grow up we pinned down some weed barrier before the stone was laid.
   
   
   
   If you plan on bringing in bags of stone or mulch, this step could be done after the beds are built. Since we had a dump trailer, I picked up a load of 6A natural stone and dumped it in place and spread it around. Had I waited until after, I would have had to move it by hand more than I wanted.
   
   

4. Appling a Finish

   
   This step is optional since we are using 2×10 treated lumber but since they are next to the house we wanted the planters to look nice. We opted to stain the outside of the planters with Behr’s solid color waterproofing stain in the color coffee. Doing so before assembly saved us a love of time and effort.
   
   

5. Assembling the Planter Boxes

   
   I started at the highest side of the box first and worked my way around. I set one end if the 2x10x12 board on the ground and clamped the other end to a 4×4 post. After getting this board perfectly level, I secured it to the 4×4 post with two lag bolts.
   
   
   
   I then worked my way around the first row, using the same method to make sure it was nice and level. I also wanted to stagger the joints so each board had one end flush with the edge of the 4×4 and the other overhung the 4×4 by 1-1/2″ so the next board could butt into that.
   
   
   
   After the first row was done I measured and cut the 4×4 off at what will be the top of the next row.
   
   
   
   The issue with building a level planter on unlevel ground is that the low side ends up having a gap at the bottom. I opted to cut a tapered board to fill this gap. Another option would be to dig down and bury the bottom board but this was easier.
   
   
   
   To do so I simply laid the board down the side and measured how much I would need to cut off at each end.
   
   
   
   I then marked that with a straight edge and cut the taper with my circular saw so we could get those boards stained to match.
   
   
   
   With the stain drying I could finish installing the top row.
   
   
   
   We also stained just a little ways down the inside of the planters so that it would look nice with the soil not completely filling it.
   
   Before filling the planters, I added 2×4 pieces inside the boxes to tie all the sides together and help keep them in line while minimizing bowing.
   
   

6. Filling with Topsoil

   
   Before filling with topsoil we stapled plastic to the sides which will help keep and water and soil from seeping through the cracks as well as protect the lumber and plants from direct contact with each other.
   
   

7. Finishing Off the Irrigation

   
   After leveling the topsoil we dug a trench for the main line down the center of each bed and located about there we wanted the micro sprayers. We installed 6 in each bed but I ended up only using 4.
   
   
   
   We then drilled holes in the main line at each sprayer location and attached micro lines to connect each sprayer and plugged the ends of the main 1/2″ line.
   
   
   
   Last but not least, I terminated the other end of the 1/2″ line with a 3/4″ hose connector and tied that into the hose spigot with a timer on it for daily waterings.

8. Laying Stepping Stones

   
   To avoid having to walk on the smaller stone all the time (especially barefoot) we opted for stepping stones in between the planters.
   
   We removed the stone and used a little sand to level the area before placing the stepping stones and backfilling the stone around them.
   
   

9. Adding Plants

   
   Most of our plants only required about 18-24″ of space so we were able to get about 24 plants in these beds.
   
   

10. Adjusting the Sprayers

    
    After the plants are in I then went back and adjusted the sprayers locations and pressure to suit.
    
    

Time needed: 1 day.

1. Seal the Bottom

   
   We need to create a water reservoir at the bottom of the planter so the first thing to do is seal any drain holes. I used a rubber stopper and then added some water to check it.
   
   

2. Cut a Hole in the Shelf

   
   The shelf that came with my planters fit nicely so it would work well for this project. If you don’t have a shelf or it doesn’t fit well, consider making a shelf out exterior grade plywood and sealing it well.
   
   I used a small cutoff of the 4″ perforated drain pipe and traced the inside of the pipe. The idea is that the shelf will actually rest on top of the pipe to help support the soil.
   
   
   
   Then I used a jigsaw to cut the hole in the shelf.
   
   

3. Making the Wicking Column

   
   We need a way to get water to the plant so I decided to use a perforated drain line so the soil in the column can wick up to the plant’s roots as it is needed.
   
   To do this I started by measuring from the bottom of the planter to the shelf.
   
   
   
   I then cut the drain pipe to that measurement with a utility knife.
   
   
   
   As another layer of protection, to keep the soil from eroding into the water reservoir, I wrapped the pipe with a mesh pipe sock and tied it off at the bottom.
   
   
   
   At the top, I cut the tube sock a few inches longer than the tube itself.
   
   

4. Installing the Shelf & Wicking Column

   
   Simply feed the excess tube sock through the hole in the shelf and set the shelf in place.
   
   
   
   Making sure the column is straight up, seal around the sides of the shelf and around the hole with silicone. Spread the excess sock out and press into the silicone (not shown).
   
   
   

5. Installing the Supply Line

   
   With the reservoir built in below the plant, we need a way to fill it. To do so we used a 1″ PVC pipe that runs from top to bottom of the planter. Start by using a hole saw to drill a hole the same size as the outer diameter of the PVC line. Cut the PVC line to the same height as the planter and paint the top black to conceal it.
   
   
   
   Insert the drain pipe and seal around it with silicone.
   
   

6. Weep Hole

   
   One simple but important hole is the weep hole. This allows water to escape at the top of the reservoir, preventing over filling. It also tells you when the reservoir is full.
   
   Measure from the top of the planter to the shelf and drill a small hole about an inch lower on the outside.
   
   

7. Planting

   
   When planting, make sure to fill and compact the soil in the column first. We didn’t, but it would probably be a good idea to add water to make sure the column is completely compacted before planting.
   
   
   
   Insert plants and finish filling and compacting soil around the plant.
   
   

8. Filling the Planter

   
   Add water to your planter through the filling tube at the top. I was surprised how much water this thing held. I would have to think it is around 5 gallons which should feed the plant for like a month or more.
   
   
   
   Once the water begins to flow out of the weep hole you will know that it is full.
   
   

Time needed: 1 day.

1. Assemble Sides

   
   
   
   

2. Assemble Bottom

   
   
   
   
   

3. Assemble Base

   
   
   
   
   

4. Install Top

   
   
   
   
   

5. Assemble Doors

   
   
   
   
   

6. Install Doors and Shelf

   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Time needed: 1 day.

1. Assemble Unit

   
   
   
   

2. Install Additional Vertical Panels

   
   
   
   

3. Install Shelves

   
   
   
   

4. Cut Beveled Trim

   
   
   
   

5. Install Beveled Trim

   
   
   
   

6. Install Back

   
   
   
   
   
   

7. Caulk, Fill, Prime, and Paint

   
   We actually did this a little out of order. We started the finishing process before installing the shelves by first filling any wood joints adjacent to the trim with DAP Premium Wood Filler.
   
   
   
   Then, after a good sanding we applied the primer and paint to the unit, shelves and back. Since our unit is white, we applied caulk later. If going with a color you would want to complete assembly and caulk before painting.
   
   
   
   After completing the unit we then applied DAP Alex Ultra to all the cubbies and this not only makes those joints disappear, with their Anti-Shrink technology, it will make sure you don’t see any cracking in the caulk as the wood moves.
   
   

8. Assemble Base

   
   
   
   
   
   

9. Install Base

   
   
   
   

1. Demo Day

   
   We started by removing the drop ceiling.
   
   
   
   We also needed to remove the vanity and a built in cabinet.
   
   
   
   The most challenging part was removing the fiberglass shower insert. This required removing the drywall around the nailing flange and cutting it into pieces to get it out.
   
   
   
   I also cut down the wall to the left of the shower which will become a half wall to make the shower feel more open.
   
   

2. Ceiling Framing

   
   With the drop ceiling gone we needed to add framing to support the new drywalled ceiling. For this I used 2x6s and joist hangers to meet code.
   
   

3. Rough Plumbing

   
   The shower drain needed to be relocated since the new shower will have a bench, thus offsetting the floor.
   
   
   
   After getting the drained moved I filled in the hole with concrete. I used a plastic sleeve to leave space around the drain.
   
   
   
   Then we removed the old plumbing and ran all new plumbing for the shower diverter, on/off valves, body sprayers, rain shower head and the Kohler steam generator and port. I also ran the included cable to the wall beside the bench for the steam generator controller.
   
   

4. Drywall

   
   This was one of the jobs I hired out because, well, I hate drywalling.
   
   

5. Can Lighting

   
   Before drywall, I used the existing ceiling light wiring, relocated it and added two more runs for a total of 3 can lights. After the drywall was up, I cut the holes, pulled the wiring down to connect the lights and installed the wafer lights.
   
   

6. Shower Waterproofing

   
   For this we used the Schluter-Kerdi shower waterproofing kit.
   
   
   
   
   
   

7. Installing Tile

   
   For the floor tile we went with a 12×24 porcelain tile and since the existing floor tile was in good shape we could go right over that.
   
   
   
   For the shower we used a marble mosaic on the feature wall and ceiling.
   
   
   
   On the back wall, half wall and bench we used the same tile we used on the bathroom floor. While the shower floor got a penny tile with a marble look to match the mosaic.
   
   
   
   After the thinset fully cured we grouted all the tile with an epoxy grout to resist any staining.
   
   

8. Installing the Vanity

   
   With some existing plumbing in the way I knew we would need to modify the new Kohler Seer Bathroom Vanity in Mohair Grey to fit around it. After taking some measurements I cut the vanity such that it would allow for that plumbing.
   
   
   
   The existing plumbing was for one sink so I added a tee and ran two new drain lines to each sink.
   
   
   
   After securing the vanity to the wall studs I then installed the countertop using DAP’s new AMP sealant which is great because it actually outperforms silicone, is 100% waterproof and prevents mold and mildew. I applied this below the countertop and caulked the countertop into the wall with it.
   
   
   
   For the faucets we went with two Kohler Katun widespread faucets in satin nickel.
   
   
   
   

9. Installing Trim

   
   Before I could install the toilet I needed to install the trim. This simply gets cut and installed with 18g brad nails into the wall studs.
   
   
   
   The nail holes get filled with DAP’s Premium Wood filler and sanded down.
   
   
   
   Before painting we caulk the trim into the wall with DAP’s Alex Ultra which is great because it is designed to shrink less and is paintable in 15 mins.
   
   

10. Installing the Toilet

    
    Since the new floor is slightly higher than the old we needed to add a 1/2″ toilet flange spacer. To make sure this was 100% waterproof I applied DAP AMP sealant to the existing flange and the back of the new flange.
    
    
    
    
    
    New anchor holes were drilled and the spacer was secured with 4 Tapcon concrete anchors.
    
    
    
    Since the existing supply line was pretty rough looking I decided to replace it with a new braided line.
    
    
    
    For the toilet we went with the Kohler Betello 2-piece which is a skirted toilet and has a slightly different installation process.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    After getting the toilet bowl and tank installed we then added the Kohler cleansing bidet which is life changing.
    
    
    
    A wireless remote gets attached to the wall for controlling all the functions of the seat.
    
    
    
    

11. Finish Shower Plumbing

    
    To finish off the shower plumbing I installed the temperature controller, volume control valves for the shower head and body sprays, and then the body sprayers and shower head themselves.
    
    
    
    

12. Installing the Bath Fan

    
    To make sure we get any moisture evacuated, I installed a Panasonic bath fan which will move a ton of air and still be super quiet.
    
    

13. Installing the Mirrors

    
    Rather than installing lights above the mirrors we opted for Kohler’s Verdera lighted mirror.
    
    
    
    
    
    The mirror on the right looks exactly the same BUT the mirror has Amazon Alexa built into it with speakers!
    
    

14. Shower Glass

    
    We had a glass company come it to measure and install the glass which ended up taking the longest. About 5 weeks in all, but it was worth the wait!
    
    

1. The Layout

   
   Nice Rink offers a ton of instruction on how to install your rink so this is going to simply act as an overview of my set up. Since we have been setting this rink up for years we have a pretty good idea of the slope which is important to find first. Laying out the overall rectangle for the rink will require stakes, a long tape measure and pythagorean’s theorem to make sure it is square. Once the stakes are square then use a long string to outline the rink.
   
   
   
   Since we are doing rounded corners, Nice Rink recommends marking 7-1/2′ in from each corner to begin the curve (and this is where the first board begins.
   
   

2. Installing the Boards

   
   The brackets have spikes on them and the point of the front spike is started where the string is and centered on the end of the board. When the bracket goes into the ground it will slide back and align with the string.
   
   
   
   We got started on this a little late and the ground was cold. Using a rubber mallet was just the persuasion we needed to get these brackets into the ground.
   
   
   
   Working one board at a time we worked our way around the rink.
   
   
   
   The corners have a different spot for the brackets so make sure to pay attention to that.
   
   

3. Under-Liner Lights

   
   One cool upgrade this year was the under-liner lights. We installed 2 blue lines, a red line and a white perimeter light. These are great because they go under the liner and won’t attract any radiant heat from the sun which would melt the ice on a sunny day.
   
   
   
   After getting thes positioned we secured them with garden stakes.
   
   
   
   After getting the first look at them at night I was pretty pumped with how they were going to turn out.
   
   

4. Installing The Netting

   
   We also added netting at each end this year because I feel like we have been chancing it every year being as one end is facing the house and windows are in striking distance. I started by using an auger to dig the holes at each corner.
   
   
   
   I had some longer 2x6s laying around so I screwed a couple of those together and used those as the posts. However treated 4x4s would be more ideal.
   
   
   
   With the posts in and backfilled we could hang the nets. Our posts tipped in a bit from the weight of the net so if you wanted to you could add another rope and stake in the ground to the sides to prevent this.
   
   

5. Liner and FIll

   
   When we saw some good cold weather in the forecast (below freezing for about a week) we started prepping for the pour. This included setting up the liner which is pretty straight forward.
   
   
   
   With the liner laid out we fit the bottom to the insides of the boards and held it in place with a few bumpers.
   
   
   
   We used a garden hose connected directly to the pressure tank from our well to fill the rink overnight. This bypasses the softener so we get more flow and don’t have to worry about running our softener dry.
   
   

6. Bumpers and Kickplates

   
   With the rink filled we could move onto installing the bumpers and kick plates. The kick plates are an upgrade that protects the liner from sticks, skates and shovels throughout the season.
   
   
   
   The last bumper get cut to fit and now we wait for the ice to get thick enough to get on.
   
   

7. Freeze and Maintain

   
   One thing most people don’t think about is maintaining the rink. Whenever it snows it needs to be cleared as soon as possible. I do so by using a snowblower.
   
   
   
   Then I go back with a snowshovel and clear what’s left.
   
   
   
   Finally, I come back with my Nice Rink resurfacer (connected to the water heater) and apply a thin coat of water to get the ice back into perfect shape.
   
   
   
   Any complications with slush and fixing other issues are addressed by Nice Rink’s many great articles.

8. Enjoy!

   
   We have so many great nights and weekends in the winter to enjoy our rink. It is something that we look forward to as winter rolls around and it give us something fun to do outside.
   
   My son is on a travel hockey team and when he’s not at practice he is able to train out back.
   
   
   
   We use it on the weekends with friends and the kids love it!
   
   
   
   At night we even break out the music and have a little DJ skate in our own back yard!